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Welcome to Jake's Page for information on keeping a

 

Bearded Dragon.

 

 

 

The following information is by Jake a young friend of mine who has asperger syndrome it is well worth looking at in the event you decide to contemplate keeping one. I came to work with Jake as part of a personalisation peer support project I devised through Msitua my autism consultancy which I set up towards the back of 2010............

 

My name is Jake Hayes I am 17 and I have a bearded dragon he is called Bernard and is just over 11 inches long. The first thing I had to do when I was thinking about getting a bearded dragon was research, I had to compile lots of information from different sources and make decisions based on the findings, I am going to try to make this a one stop information guide for anyone thinking about getting a bearded dragon.

The first thing I am going to talk about is the back ground of the bearded dragon. The bearded dragon (Ponga Vitticeps) is native to Australia and can be commonly be found in most places of the country. The bearded dragon is a lizard so is cold blooded, this means that it has to get its energy from the heat from the sun this allows it to digest food and to move around, In the wild they live to around 7 years but in captivity they may live as long as 10-13 years and grow up to 24inches long, although the average is around 18-20 inches. In the wild the baby bearded dragons eat mainly insects and bugs, but slowly move more to vegetables and greens as they get older as they require less protein.

Bearded dragons come in different colours with each one having unique markings on their body; the most common are beige with dark highlights around the spine and head, but they can come in red and orange or dark olive if you can look for them, but these special, “morphs” as they are called, are very valuable to collectors, so are expensive and normally not sold by pet stores but by individual breeders. Bearded dragons are becoming more popular in Europe and the UK so are easier to find in pet stores. The cage in which you keep a bearded dragon is a vivarium and has 3 solid walls with a glass sliding door normally; this is needed to make the dragon feel safe. The bearded dragon is a very hardy breed and is not prone to disease or infection but if the vivarium is not maintained correctly the dragon may become ill, it will also not survive being dropped or mistreated.

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Deciding if a bearded dragon is for you:
To own a bearded dragon you do not need any licences or special qualifications, but you must be patient and careful with the dragon. It is a long term investment as they live to be very old and grow quite large, but is very rewarding once he or she gets older and gets to know you. Also if you live in a noisy house where there are other pets, try to find a place where it’s quiet and away from noise as they can be quite sensitive to loud noises or get scared if they see other pets.

Another very important factor is cost, they are not cheap to set up. All the bits and pieces can be made more affordable by building your own vivarium if you have the right woods and have some prior building experience but there are lots of tutorials on the web and advice to set you up with everything you need. You may need to search around on eBay or the web, or alternatively you can go to a pet store but they are normally a lot more expensive. You will also have to factor in the cost of food and the electric bill for the heaters and lamps. Normally crickets are not very expensive but do need to be bought on a regular basis.

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Looking for a bearded dragon:
Before you buy the vivarium make sure you have a place to put it and select a dragon before you buy all the equipment, if you are worried that someone may buy the dragon before you are able to get the equipment set up, you may be able to buy the dragon but ask them to keep it for a few weeks until you get your set up complete and make sure there are no problems. You may notice there is a sort of “third eye” on the top of their head, this is normal and is just used as a temperature guide. Some dragons have it and some do not it’s just the luck of the draw.

The main things to look for in a bearded dragon are to make sure they have all their fingers and toes, any missing should be fully healed. Its not uncommon to see bearded dragons with a finger or toe missing or even the end of their tail but you need to make sure that they are fully healed to be sure there is no infection or disease. If the baby dragons are kept in one place have a look at them to make sure there are no sick, diseased or ‘wrong’ looking dragons in the bunch, because they may all have health problems. Don’t worry if you don’t know what a sick dragon looks like, as soon as you see one it will be obvious compared to healthy ones as healthy ones will have bright eyes, and a curved tail towards their head also make sure they are alert by waggling your finger and to see if they notice it. Also shop around there may be different morphs or colours some where else.

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How to choose a dragon:
Make sure that you have a good look around and find one that is healthy and happy, and the colour/ size that you want, many pet stores will have mature dragons for sale if you don’t want to look after a baby dragon or are new to dragons this may be a good choice as they are easier to look after and are less prone to disease, although the dragon may take longer to bond with you.

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Age to buy a dragon:
The prime age to buy a bearded dragon is around 8-12 weeks, or over 6 inches long this is the minimum age and size to buy a bearded dragon. They should not be sold under 6 weeks old. This is because some dragons don’t like food and will die of starvation these are called non-feeders. A feeder, by the age of 10 weeks should be over 6 inches long and ready to buy.

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Male and females
There are no obvious differences between them apart from there reproductive organs, they grow to the same size and live just as long, the only main difference is in the mating season a males beard will blacken while normally a females will not. Apart from that there are no real differences.

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Different set ups:
There are many different variations of set ups that you can use for bearded dragons, if you are new to bearded dragons and are nervous about getting one I would recommend you think about getting a grown adult, as they will be the easiest to look after. But you must not introduce dragons from different families, if you have a small cage it is best to have dragons from the same group.

If you are new but have done a lot of research into bearded dragons, then a baby dragon may be right for you if you have to time to look after it.

But, if you want a great set up and have the money,  I would recommend getting a 5ft by 3ft cage and getting a male and 2 female bearded dragons, this is a fairly normal set up as dragons in a group can be happier and adjust better if they are around siblings.

If you are planning to have more than one dragon, do not buy 2 or more males unless you have a very large cage, as they will fight for dominance and may hurt each other. Also one male and one female can be tricky at times as the male in mating season may constantly pester the female and stress her.

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Sexing your dragon:
The sex of your dragon is not really important if you have just one and have no interest in mating them but it is a nice thing to know, really it is impossible to tell their sex when they are juveniles (less then 6 weeks old) and will become apparent at around 6 months. You can tell the sex of you dragon by two ways first:
Look on the underside of their rear legs, if you see clear black dots or lumps they are a male, if there are slight raised bumps (barley noticeable) they are a female, these black dots are the pheromone glands that a male uses to attract a female, the females do have these but are much less useful.
The second way is to gently lift their tail up and look at the base of the tail if there are two hanging bits of skin of either side of the tail, it is a male, and if it has one bump it is a female.

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Breeding:
I have not bred dragons before so can’t give you good advice, but if you are looking to breed them I would suggest being involved in a forum or talking to a breeder.

Habitat requirements: Seeing if it’s right for you, and the basics.
This is the most important thing to get right for a beaded dragon. For one dragon to last from a baby to an adult the minimum that you should go for is a 36inch by 18inch
Vivarium this will last it to maturity the height’s not as important as they do not need to climb as much as some geckos or other reptiles but it should be around 21 inches tall to get a nice open vivarium, but obviously bigger is better and the bigger the cage the happier your dragon will be. For two dragons you will need at least a 48 inch by 18inch vivarium but a 48inch by 24inch is much better.

They will need a few things in their vivarium to keep them fit and healthy, they will need a few basking spots (I will cover the details in a later part) and the cage must be heated, with a few things to climb and space to run around. Another thing they will need is a few rocks, this may sound silly but it helps to keep their nails sharp and short so they do not get painful to walk on, and to aid with shedding as they will become irritated and will want to rub against anything rough, I would suggest slate or some other flat rough stone. Water and greens should be available at all times too, even if they do not seem to eat the greens or drink they will get used to it and eventually start to drink and eat. It is possible to have an all natural vivarium, (sort of like a small ecosystem) but I am not an expert and would not advise it for new reptile keepers as they are very temperamental and very hard to do right.

Try not to over crowd the vivarium and if the dragon does not seem to like a part of it either take it out or change it, also make sure everything is safe and not wobbly or it could hurt your dragon.

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Glass vs. wood:
Glass vivarium:
These are not suitable for bearded dragons as they are more open and the dragon may feel venerable, also for the tank you will need a heat gradient this is very hard to maintain in a glass tank as glass is not a good insulator.
Wood vivarium:
These are much better your dragon will feel more secure and safe; also it is a lot easier to control the temperature in a wood tank as it is a better insulator.

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Substrate:
This is a hard topic as people will have different opinions because of their individual dragons, I use calcium sand because it is digestible when ingested and looks good, where as some people will only use reptile carpet, but I think as long as your dragon is not eating the substrate it doesn’t matter. If you want to be on the safe side but like the look of sand you can feed the dragon outside the cage if you want to, also for very young dragons around 0-3 months old I would be safe and use reptile carpet. But if you look around in pet stores you may see a substrate that appeals to you.

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Detailed habitat requirements:
As bearded dragons are native to Australia they require a very hot climate, this heat is generated by a heat or “sun lamp” this will heat the cage to around 90-100 degrees f. But to make a perfect environment for your dragon one end of the tank must be cooler than the other, at the moment I have my hot end set at, 92 degrees, and my cool end at just under 80. All dragons are different so if a dragon is always at the cool end lower the temperature and visa versa, another very important thing is to have different levels and basking spots in the vivarium as the dragons like to climb small branches or rocks, but make sure the branch is wider than the dragon or it will not feel safe, the basking spot should be around 110 degrees f, although can be higher when they are shedding or digesting food, it is good to have a branch that has multiple spots for the dragon to bask in, this will allow him to thermo regulate more easily, at the moment I have my main basking spot at 120 degrees and the other spots around the branch vary from 90 degrees to 115 degrees f.

Humidity is not needed for a bearded dragon as they can drink out of a water bowl and live in arid conditions, and can get plenty of moisture eating greens, but when the dragon is shedding and it is taking a while or he looks very uncomfortable, you can mist the cage with water this will help loosen the skin. Be carful not to over do it though as bacteria will love the warm humidity of the cage. To help keep the moisture out of the panels you must use an aquarium sealer around the corners of the vivarium.

Depending on where you live you may need a thermo mat for night time heat regulation as if you live in the UK like me then you will know that it gets quite cold at night so heat is needed to keep the dragon warm, but do not use a infra red lamp at night as dragons can see it unlike some lizards and they may have irrational sleep patterns. I keep the temperature at night above 65 degrees this is needed to get the perfect growing conditions. To keep the heat regulated you will need thermostats, these are small boxes that control the temperature of the heat mat and the heat lamp or they will get too hot and may burn the dragon, you will need a dimming thermostat for the heat lamp as this will control the voltage to the lamp so that it dims and gets brighter when you need more or less heat. But for the heat mat you can use a normal thermostat as the pulsing on and off does not bother the dragon but the on and off of the light will bother you and your dragon.

 

One of the most important things that you will need is a UVB lamp this will allow the dragon to break down the calcium in the dragon’s body to allow bone growth, my sun lamp provides all four spectrums of light; infa red, visible light, UVB and UVA although UVA light is not needed for bearded dragons. The dragon would get this from the sun normally so if you live in a hot country (above 80 degrees f.) you can take him outside for an hour and you will not need to provide a UVB bulb. One thing that you must avoid is heat rocks, as the dragon cannot sense heat from under him and this may burn him.

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Here is a small check list of everything that you need to run your vivarium:

36 inch by 18 inch or larger vivarium with or without cabinet depending on where you put it

2x thermometers (dial ones not chemical)

Sun lamp or heat bulb

Sun lamp bracket and holder

UVB lamp (size is dependant on the size of the vivarium e.g. 36in vivarium needs a 30 inch tube bulb)

UVB lamp fitting

Dimming thermostat for the sun/ heat lamp

Mat thermostat (mat stat)

Heat mat

Water bowl

Food bowl

Substrate

A rock of some description for filing the nails down

Calcium dust

Multivitamin

Gut loading supplement

Aquarium sealer

And any decorations that you want to put in such as a basking rock/ branch or fake plants etc.

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Sleep:
Bearded dragons will need at least 10 hours a day of UV light, and they will normally sleep for 10-12 hours at night. I turn on my lights around 8.30- 9am and turn them off about 8:30, he gets enough sleep so is active in the day. I work on a 12 to 12 ratio, (12 hours of light, 12 hours of dark) but some people go 13 and 11 or they vary it through the year it all depends on the owner, and if you are breeding the dragons.

Some people like to create a summer and winter this is easily done by in winter giving him 10 hours of UV light and 14 dark hours and in the summer 14 hours of light and 10 hours of dark. Some people even vary the temperatures for summer and winter but this is not necessary.

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Growing:            
Dragons reach maturity at around 18 months old; if they are fed well and are healthy they may reach this earlier. My current dragon Bernard is growing at a rate of ¾ of an inch a week, but as normal this is different with each dragon as some may grow in bursts or spurts, and can take up to 2 years to reach full length. Calcium and a good diet is the way to get a dragon to grow its best. 

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Feeding:
The first thing you need to know about feeding is that you should not feed the dragon any insects that you have caught from your garden this is because they may have some pesticides in or on them which can be passed to the dragon. Make sure that you do not leave crickets in the cage overnight as they may nibble on your dragon.

A lot of people say that you should give the dragon as many crickets as he can eat, this is wrong, as I found out when I first got my dragon as most pet stores will give them crickets every other day to make him grow slower. I found that giving him a small number of crickets 3 times a day and slowly increasing the number each day helped to ease him into his new diet. Another thing that people say is that they need a lot of greens when they are little, this is not the case as they will need a lot more protein then vegetables, but they should slowly be given less crickets and more greens as they get older and reach maturity at 18 months.

If you notice your dragon getting fat or having a large belly most of the time cut down on their food. A normal dragon should be plump but not visibly uncomfortable or bloated all the time. Normally all dragons should be healthy and fit by just running around the cage and general handling.

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What to feed them:
I feed my dragon around 18 small-medium (around 4mm wide) sized crickets a day and he eats some vegetables in the morning if he wants them. He is around 11 inches long and is growing very fast at the moment, and has no obvious health problems. The crickets he eats are dusted daily with calcium and are sold in most pet shops. You will need to do this once a day and multivitamin once a week. Also the insects that you feed him must be gut loaded- this means that you must feed the crickets; I use a paste which contains both water and a nutritional feed. Alternatively you could use oats and water.
You must make sure the crickets that you feed him are no bigger than the distance between his eyes, as this is roughly the size of their throat and they find it hard to swallow larger insects. I would only advise crickets as most other insects either have a hard shell or provide little to no nutritional value.

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Vegetables:
Always give your dragon fresh veg in the morning even if they don’t eat it as they will often try some, and it will help them get used to it as they get older. Some people say that you can mix mealworms with them but this is not a good idea as they are quite hard to digest. But any green leaves EXCEPT spinach and ice burg lettuce are fine as spinach acts as a calcium binder and iceberg lettuce has little to no nutritional value. They can have other veg as well such as potatoes, cucumber, apple and orange (in very small quantities). All veg should be cut in to very small chunks to help with digestion. My dragon loves red lettuce so I try to get a lot of that but you must find what they like and don’t worry if they don’t eat it straight away they will naturally eat greens if they are provided with them as they get older.

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Water:
This should be fresh at least daily, 2 times a day is better, and should be normal tap water or if you want to be fancy spring water from the supermarket but its not required. Don’t give them juice or flavoured water as these are high in sugar and will cause the dragon to become fat, he should find the water on his own but I find that dripping a small bit on the nose helps them to get used to it.

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Crickets:
I was a little confused with the crickets at first, and then I got the hang of it and learnt how to keep them, the first thing you need to know are the different types of crickets, black and brown. Black crickets generally have more chitin around their body this is the hard exoskeleton that gives the insects there protection, and are generally not silent. If you want to keep your dragon and the insects near each other I would not recommend the black ones as they can disturb the dragon and you. Brown crickets are silent usually and have less chitin around their body, so are easier to digest. And the second thing you need to know is the gut loading, as explained above.

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Poo:
A healthy dragon should poo every day or at least every other day. There should be a white gooey substance that comes out first, followed by a well formed cylinder, there may be a small amount of water this is normal as they poo and urinate at the same time. It should not be lumpy, or if the white goo is hard they may be dehydrated or may be having trouble digesting the crickets. Also there should be a smell but not very strong, if it is very strong, it may be caused by parasites and will need to be treated sooner rather than later.

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Shedding:
The first time you see your dragon shedding it may be very scary, I was at first, they may start to look lighter in colour and will start to itch, this is normal. One morning you may wake to find small pits of skin in the cage or the dragon may look like his skin has exploded off his body, this may look weird but the dragon is fine but very itchy. A dragons shed can take from 1 day to a few weeks, I find that my dragon sheds in stages, first his head and arms, then his body and belly then lastly his tail this normally takes a week or 2, but some dragons may have similar routines or may just shed everything at the same time. They may go off their food when they are shedding and may not seem to drink, but don’t worry they will start drinking and eating after the shed. Another thing that may happen is they wont eat crickets or greens but they eat their skin. This is a perfectly natural thing for them to do, and is actually good for them as the skin contains some nutrients.

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Things you can do to help shedding:
If your dragon seems to take a long time shedding then, you may want to mist the dragon with luke warm water; this will help separate the skin from the body. Another thing is to do is to bath them and just gently wash water over their backs. Lastly you can run your finger very gently across where they are shedding, this will help loosen skin, but you must not pull or peel the skin off their backs, this may
pull off skin still attached and leave sore patches.  There are also some products that you can buy out of the pet store to help with shedding but only use these if your dragon really can’t shed his skin himself.

Things to do while he is shedding:
You can turn up the heat of the bulb by about 5-10 degrees f. This will help the drying of the skin and may help speed the process up. Also increasing humidity will also help as the peeling skin will contract and pull off on its own. Also make sure that there are a number of places that he can scratch himself on as this is a very stressful time for the dragon and any thing that he can scratch on is good. You can clean out their cage when he has finished shedding to get rid of skin that hasn’t been eaten. Try to limit handling as he will be very stressed and itchy so just let him get on with it.

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Handling:
Handling your dragon is very easy as long as you make sure of a few things:
First: there are no loud noises or other pets around
Second: you are confident and careful
Third: you are somewhere safe so he can’t cut himself or hurt himself
And finally: you are ready for him to jump or try and get away.

If you are ready you can just pick your dragon up by both sliding your hand under his belly and supporting his legs. Or allowing him to walk on to you hand, this may not be possible when they are small as they may not trust you at first. Make sure that you are supporting all his legs and body or he will not feel safe and will try to run back. Bearded dragons are excellent climbers and will happily climb up your arm or chest, so be ready for that. Also slow steady movements are needed so that the dragon is not scared. You may find that the first few times you handle him he grasps your hand or arm, this means that he digs his claws into your hand or arm to support himself, this is normal and he will eventually stop doing this, it doesn’t hurt but don’t pull him off as you may break his claws.

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I would not handle the dragon for a few days after you get him as they will be still adjusting to their new environment, also in mating season males may be a little more aggressive, but even in mating season a bite is extremely rare and will only happen if the dragon is provoked.

When you first start to handle your dragon make it little and often, I found that handling before and after feeding for a few minutes has helped him begin to trust me and allow me to handle him for longer periods of time, but when they are younger you must not have them out of the cage for very long periods of time as they will cool down and may take a while to warm back up. As they get older and larger they can thermo regulate easier and may be out of the cage for an hour or so. You may want to handle the dragon in his enclosure to start with as this is the place he will feel safest.

To get your dragon used to you and being handled you can stroke the dragon on his head or back very gently and if he resists or moves himself away stop and try again later, he should eventually get used to it and enjoy being handled, but this is different for all dragons as some will love being handled and out of the cage where as others will hate it, it just depends dragon by dragon.

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Cleaning and routine:
The cage will need to be spot cleaned every day, this means picking up poo and shed skin, depending on your substrate this will need to replaced 2 times a year. The vivarium will need to be disinfected every other month; this is because bacteria can build up around the cage from shedding and the crickets. If you spot any mould, this must be cleaned straight away as it can be poisonous to the dragon.

To clean the cage all you need to do is to get a bleached cloth (1 in 10 dilution) and ring the cloth so its not dripping water, then just wipe the walls and the glass and leave to dry, once the cage is dry wipe the insides with a damp cloth, then wait until you cant smell bleach anymore and move the dragon back in. This will need to be done the first time you build the cage as well. 

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Bathing the dragon:
Bathing is fairly easy, what you need to do is get a fairly large container  then fill it with luke warm water  (70degrees f.) , about up to the dragons belly so that he can stand up but his belly and arms are mostly submerged then splash water over his back and tail. Try not to get any in the ear canal as this may cause discomfort, if you want you can very gently scrub him with a soft tooth brush, if he doesn’t mind and seems to be happy with you doing it.

The first few baths the dragon may not like it, if not give him a very quick bath and keep trying he may get used to it, but some dragons may just not like the water, my dragon doesn’t like baths so I try to give him one every week for about 5 minutes, this keeps stress down.

When you bathe the dragon you have to make him stay in the water, but don’t trap him in, you must keep him in but make him feel safe, another thing that may help is to hold the dragon in the bath, but if you have more than one dragon be careful as one my stand on the other to get out of the water, this could drown the other dragon.

Here is my routine of what I do with Bernard:

Monday

Tuesday

Wednesday

Thursday

Friday

Saturday

Sunday

Calcium dusted crickets

Calcium dusted crickets

Calcium dusted crickets

Calcium dusted crickets

Calcium dusted crickets

Calcium dusted crickets

Calcium dusted crickets

 

Multivitamin

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bath

 

 

Gut load crickets

 

 

Gut load crickets

 

 

Gut load crickets

This is a simple routine but I think it helps if you are like me and have a very clear routine.

Health issues and what to look out for:
Bearded dragons are a very hardy breed bit can still fall ill even under the best care so here are some early warning signs to look for before it gets bad:

The main thing that normally indicates is a dragon is sick is if he starts to go off his food for long periods of time, this can indicate a number of things e.g. starting to shed but if he is off food for more than 5 days and is not shedding take it to a vet.

Blotchy or cloudy eyes, this can be a sign of eye infection or a scratch, you should take it to a reptile vet, this can get serious if not treated.

Constant scratching, this can be a sign of shedding but if he is not shedding and is still itchy this may be mites, again its best to see a vet but some pet stores may sell reptile mite dust baths.

A cut or a bruise, this is fairly common when young dragons are kept together they may easily get too rough and hurt one another, or they could cut themselves on a part of the cage, the best thing to do is either get a vet or look for reptile healing supplements.

The main thing that normally effects bearded dragons is impaction, this is fairly easy to cure when its mild cases but can get very serious very quickly, impaction is when the dragon gets things that are blocking his digestive tracks and he cannot poo. This causes strain and pressure on the spinal chord and the back legs. If a dragon has not gone to the toilet in a few days and this is not normal or is getting very fat but not eating try giving warm baths once a day and massage his stomach by stroking it towards his tail, this may help loosen the blockage and he may poo in a few days, if this does not cure it seek a vet immediately as bearded dragons can die from this.

The common causes of impaction are as follows:
-Eating food much too large for them
-Eating an indigestible part of the cage e.g. sand or wood shaving
-Poor diet
-Being over fed
-Basking light is not hot enough for them to digest their food

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 Behaviour:
Everyone that owns a beaded dragon will tell you that they have a very important character and grow to love and trust their owners if treated right and cared for. There are many behavioural factors that a bearded dragon displays, many are just when they are in groups or in mating season, the main thing is to be loving but to let them have their own space as well. Here are the main behavioural traits that a bearded dragon will display:

 

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-“Arm waving” Is when a bearded dragon lifts one of its front legs up and moves it anti clockwise. This is to symbolise submissiveness to another bearded dragon, or a female may do this to a male in mating season to show that she is ready for a mate.

-“Head bobbing” When the dragon moves or bobs his head up and down repeatedly fairly quickly this is a show of dominance or aggression and is often only done by the alpha male in a group of dragons or a male to a female to get a mate.

-A bearded dragon will often lick his surroundings to test temperature or for signs of predators and the tongue operates as a nose much like a snake or a monitor lizard.

-A dragon may also act very skittish towards you at first but this is normal as he/ she does not associate you with trust at the moment.

-They may also sit on their basking spot with their mouths open, this is to get rid of excess heat and as a warning. Do not worry if they do bite, but this is very rare.

The most impressive and important display of a bearded dragon is its beard, it will “puff” it up to get a mate or to show dominance and aggression when fighting with other dragons. You may notice their beard going black in the summer this is nothing to worry about, they do it when mating season comes around this only happens with males mostly but some females may develop a black beard as well in rare circumstances.

-“Tail wagging” some dragons will wag their tail like a dog when in groups this is only observed when they are juveniles and is seen as a playful act, but they will also wag their tails when going into a shed to try the crack the skin on the tail to make it easier to shed.

-Eye bulging, this is where the dragon pushes his eyes out their sockets to stretch the skin around their eyes and to help shedding. This is normal and does not hurt the dragon.

One thing that scared me when I first got my bearded dragon was that he wasn’t pooping and was quite lethargic (sleepy and lazy) but it turns out that he was just scared from moving away from his brothers and sisters to a new environment but soon learnt his environment and adapted and now he is the perfect lizard he eats and goes to the toilet regularly. Another thing that may scare you or worry you is that his skin may go a lighter colour or look like its lifting, he may be shedding an if he/ she goes off his food there is nothing to worry about this is normal.

Mostly bearded dragons only display aggression to other dragons and have a great temperament making them good first time pets. Bearded dragons are very good for kids, as long as they are supervised as they are active and have their own character. They are a semi-intelligent reptile and do learn to adapt to their environment, and are a very rewarding pet to look after.

dragon1

All the information in this guide in from my personal experience and research, as with all things some people may have different opinions and you should research from all different sources as you may find this does not work for you, as every bearded dragon is different and what works for one may not work for others. 

 

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